1991 Subaru Legacy Oil and filter change

Step 1

Repair step

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• Collect the tools you'll need
• Drain bolt wrench, drain-pan, jack, jack-stands, rags, filter-pliers, cardboard, funnel, gloves
• Check what drain bolt size and type your car uses before starting
• For Subaru specifically, I'll be using a black Tokyo Roki LFS706 factory filter, sold by a Subaru as part # 15208AA100 with a new crush washer

Step 2

Jacking up the car

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• Jack up the front of the car from the centre jack point if you have a hydraulic jack
• Put jack-stands under pinch welds before gently lowering the car onto them
• Check the stability of the stands before getting under the vehicle

Step 3

Check your drain pan

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• Check your drain pan is empty and clean it out as required
• Raise the hood/bonnet and open the filler cap to assist draining
• Place the drain pan under the car

Step 4

Drain the oil

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• Climb under the car using your cardboard or a creeper
• Remove the drain bolt slowly, adjusting the catch pan as it starts to flow to avoid spillage
• Wait for the oil to flow from the engine

Step 5

Replace the drain bolt

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• Clean the bolt
• Remove the old crush washer if you have a new one
• Fit the new crush washer onto the bolt
• Clean the bolt mating flange on the cars oil pan
• Put the bolt back into the engine and tighten to the suggested spec
• If you don't have a torque wrench, don't over-tighten the bolt

Step 6

Remove and replace the oil filter

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• Carefully adjust the now-full catch pan under the oil filter
• Remove the old oil filter, using pliers or a wrench if required
• If it's too tight and you don't have the right tools, you can hammer a screwdriver through the side and rotate it... But hope you have the right replacement!
• I like large oil filter pliers, as they can be used also for brake jobs
• The filter will be full of oil so place on your drain pan or carefully upright if your pan has no place for it
• After the car mounting flange stops dripping a lot, prepare the new filter with a smear of oil on its gasket
• Be 100% sure you've removed the old gasket before installing the new filter
• Wipe down the mounting flange on the engine, and screw on the new filter by hand, 3/4 of a turn past when it touches the gasket

Step 7

Remove pan and lower car

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• Carefully slide the now-full catch pan from under the car
• Lift the car slightly and pull away the jack stands
• Carefully lower the car to the ground
• Push the front of the car down a few times to reset the suspension

Step 8

Fill the car with oil

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• If your drain pan has gradations you can guess approximately how much oil to put in
• Or if your manual has a listing
• My car takes AROUND 4.5 litres
• Using a funnel, pour in 3.5 litres or so
• Check the dipstick with your rag
• If you hold the large oil bottles sideways they won't glug as much
• Fill until near top of range on dipstick
• Re-check there are no loose tools or rags in the engine bay, and start the engine for 10 to 20 seconds

Step 9

Check for leaks and top up

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• After running the car for a few seconds, turn it off
• Check the level again
• The oil filter should be full now, so the level might be lower
• Top up as required
• Check under the car for leaks

Step 10

Cleanup

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• If you used all your oil you should be able to use the empty bottle to put the used oil in
• Funnel and lots of patience to transfer the oil from the catch pan to the empty bottle
• You can drop off the old oil at car part places or some mechanics
• Run the car around the block or so to get a temperature cycle and recheck level and leaks
• DONE