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iPhone SE 2022 Taptic Engine Replacement

Use this guide to remove and replace the Taptic...

Apple iPhone SE 2022 Moderate 40 minutes - 1 hour Guide 150088
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This attributed iFixit guide is displayed through Fixonic's recorded commercial API permission. iFixit remains the independent source and author of the procedure.

Guide overview

Before you begin

Use this guide to remove and replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone SE 2022. This guide was performed on the A2783 (international) model. Note: This guide instructs you to fully detach and remove the display assembly; this is highly recommended for easier handling and to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine while keeping the display cables attached, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display. If you do not replace the adhesive seals when reassembling, your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its water protection. You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

Step 1

Remove the pentalobe screws

  • Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
  • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Step 2

Mark your opening picks

  • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
  • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.
Step 3

Tape over any cracks

  • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
  • If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.
Step 4

Anti-Clamp instructions

  • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
  • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
  • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
  • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
  • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
  • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.
Step 5

Repair step

  • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
  • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
  • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Step 6

Repair step

  • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
  • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
  • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
  • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
  • Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
  • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
  • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
  • Skip the next two steps.
Step 7

Heat the front panel adhesive

  • If you're using a suction handle, follow the next two steps to loosen the rear glass.
  • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
  • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 8

Screen information

  • To avoid damaging your screen in the next step, note the following:
  • There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen. Your opening pick will go underneath this bezel.
  • There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll damage the screen.
  • Sometimes the display panel separates from the bezel before you even get a chance to insert a pick. This may be unavoidable depending on the condition of the adhesive. In this case, you’ll most likely need to replace your entire screen.
Step 9

Insert an opening pick

  • Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.
  • Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
  • If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
  • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
Step 10

Slice the adhesive

  • Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.
  • Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
  • Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
  • Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 11

Slice the adhesive

  • If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
  • Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
  • Stop near the top left corner of the display.
  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
Step 12

Repair step

  • Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
  • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
  • Stop near the top right corner of the display.
Step 13

Lift the screen

  • Remove the opening picks.
  • Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
  • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
  • Remove the suction handle.
Step 14

Slice the remaining adhesive

  • Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.
Step 15

Disengage the front panel clips

  • Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Step 16

Lift up the display

  • Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
  • Don't try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board.
  • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Step 17

Unfasten the lower display cable bracket screws

  • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
  • Two 1.2 mm-long screws
  • Two 2.8 mm-long screws
  • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.
Step 18

Remove the lower display cable bracket

  • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.
Step 19

Disconnect the battery

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 20

Disconnect the display and digitizer cables

  • The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
  • To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 21

Unfasten the front sensor assembly bracket screws

  • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.
Step 22

Remove the front sensor assembly bracket

  • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.
Step 23

Disconnect the front sensor assembly cable

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 24

Remove the display assembly

  • Remove the display assembly.
  • During reassembly, follow this guide to apply adhesive and install your display assembly.
Step 25

Unfasten the Lightning connector bracket screws

  • Unfasten the three screws securing the Lighting connector bracket:
  • One 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
  • One 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw
  • One 2.9 mm-long Phillips screws
Step 26

Remove the Lightning connector bracket

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Lightning connector bracket.
Step 27

Loosen the Wi-Fi diversity antenna flex cable

  • Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.
  • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered to the speaker. If you're struggling to separate the cable from the speaker, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
Step 28

Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna by prying its connector straight up from its socket.
  • The socket of this connector sits loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine and it's a bit fiddly to disconnect the cable. To make the disconnection easier, you can use an opening pick to hold down the connector socket during this procedure.
  • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
Step 29

Repair step

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna from the logic board by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 30

Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
Step 31

Unfasten the Taptic Engine screws

  • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
  • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
  • One 2.1 mm standoff screw
  • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
  • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.
Step 32

Remove the grounding bracket

  • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the grounding bracket at the left edge of the Taptic Engine.
Step 33

Pry the antenna cable socket

  • Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the Taptic Engine connector below.
Step 34

Disconnect the Taptic Engine

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 35

Remove the Taptic Engine

  • Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the Taptic Engine.