FIXONIC
SellSavedMy Fixonic
Official iFixit API visual reference

iPhone 11 Pro Max Audio Control Cable Replacement

If your volume buttons or silent switch have...

Apple iPhone 11 Pro Max Moderate No estimate Guide 204093
Open the authorised source
Licensed iFixit integration

This attributed iFixit guide is displayed through Fixonic's recorded commercial API permission. iFixit remains the independent source and author of the procedure.

Guide overview

Before you begin

If your volume buttons or silent switch have quit working, replacing the Audio Control Cable may help. This cable also connects the wireless charging coil to the Lightning port assembly, so a damaged cable can also cause problems with wireless charging. This guide will show you how to replace that cable. Note that it can be purchased with or without the charging coil already attached; if you are comfortable with a small amount of soldering, this is the guide to use. Otherwise you should purchase one already soldered to the charging coil and your homework will be to create the guide to that repair. The main difference is, of course, that you'll also have to remove the charging coil, which necessitates removal of the motherboard.

Step 1

Remove the pentalobe screws

  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Step 2

Mark your opening picks

  • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
  • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.
Step 3

Tape over any cracks

  • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
  • If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.
Step 4

Screen information

  • To avoid damaging your screen in the next steps, note the following:
  • There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen. Your opening pick will go underneath this bezel.
  • There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll damage the screen.
  • Sometimes the display panel separates from the bezel before you even get a chance to insert a pick. This may be unavoidable depending on the condition of the adhesive. In this case, you’ll most likely need to replace your entire screen.
Step 5

Anti-Clamp instructions

  • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
  • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
  • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
  • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
  • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
  • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
  • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.
Step 6

Repair step

  • Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
  • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
  • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Step 7

Repair step

  • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
  • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
  • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
  • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
  • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
  • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
  • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
  • Skip the next three steps.
Step 8

Heat the lower edge of the phone

  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Step 9

Repair step

  • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
Step 10

Lift the display slightly

  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
  • Insert an opening pick into the gap.
  • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
Step 11

Separate the screen adhesive

  • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Step 12

Screen information

  • There's a delicate cable along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cable.
Step 13

Repair step

  • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
  • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.
Step 14

Repair step

  • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
  • Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
  • Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.
Step 15

Repair step

  • Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
  • Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
  • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Step 16

Remove the suction cup

  • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
Step 17

Open the iPhone

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
  • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
  • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.
Step 18

Unscrew the battery connector cover

  • Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
  • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.
Step 19

Remove the battery connector cover

  • Remove the bracket.
Step 20

Disconnect the battery

  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
  • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Step 21

Unscrew the logic board cover screws

  • Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
Step 22

Remove the logic board cover bracket

  • Remove the bracket.
Step 23

Disconnect the OLED display cable

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
  • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 24

Disconnect the front sensors + digitizer

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
  • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.
Step 25

Remove the display assembly

  • Remove the display assembly.
  • During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.
Step 26

Unscrew the lower battery connector cover

  • Use a Y000 driver to remove the four 1.2 mm screws securing the lower battery connector cover.
Step 27

Remove the cover

  • Remove the lower battery connector cover.
Step 28

Disconnect the lower battery connector

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the lower battery flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
Step 29

Disconnect the Taptic Engine

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
Step 30

Unscrew the Taptic Engine

  • Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:
  • One 2.0 mm-long Y000 screw
  • One 1.6 mm-long Y000 screw
  • One 4.0 mm-long standoff screw
  • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
  • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.
Step 31

Remove the Taptic Engine

  • Remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 32

Unscrew the flex cable bracket

  • Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.3 mm screws securing the Lightning flex cable bracket.
Step 33

Remove the flex cable bracket

  • Remove the flex cable bracket.
Step 34

Disconnect the Lightning flex cable

  • Pry up to disconnect both of the Lightning flex cable connectors from the Logic board.
Step 35

Push the flex cable aside

  • Gently lift the Lightning flex cable and bend it slightly toward the bottom edge of the iPhone for better access to the battery underneath.
Step 36

Locate the adhesive pull-tabs

  • The battery is secured to the rear case with three pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one near the bottom edge of the battery, one near the top, and one on the right.
  • Each piece of adhesive has one or two black pull-tabs at the end, which are lightly adhered to the side edges of the battery.
  • In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. These "command-strip" style adhesives lose their stick when stretched, so you can remove the battery with ease.
  • If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for tips on removing broken strips.
Step 37

Repair step

  • Peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
  • Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.
Step 38

Remove the bottom adhesive strip

  • Grab the pull tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
  • Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
  • Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
  • Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
  • Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
  • If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
  • If any of the adhesive strips break off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
Step 39

Repair step

  • The top pull tabs lie very close to the Face ID sensors. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care. Don't touch the lenses with your fingers.
  • Peel down the battery adhesive pull tabs to un-stick them from the top edge of the battery.
Step 40

Remove the top adhesive strip

  • Grab both pull tabs at the same time, and slowly pull to stretch the adhesive away from the battery, toward the top of the iPhone.
  • Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
  • If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
  • If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the next step.
Step 41

Repair step

  • Peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs to un-stick them from the right edge of the battery.
Step 42

Remove the side adhesive strip

  • Using the same procedure as before, pull both tabs at the same time to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strip holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on the edge of the iPhone.
  • Be careful not to fling the battery from the iPhone as the final adhesive strip comes out.
  • If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
  • Otherwise, continue with the next step below.
Step 43

How to remove a stuck battery

  • If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
  • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
  • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
Step 44

Remove the battery

  • Remove the battery.
  • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
  • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
  • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
  • If your new battery didn't come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
  • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Step 45

Disconnect the audio control cable

  • Use a small spudger to unplug the audio control / wireless charging coil cable.
Step 46

Peel the cable from the case

  • The flex cable is lightly adhered to the case; using heat will make it easier, but is not really necessary.
  • Don't try to peel it up past the edge of the wireless charging coil; that's where the flex cable is soldered on and attempting to do so may damage the coil.
Step 47

Unsolder the wireless charging coil

  • The wide spot in the cable marks the location of the solder joint. Heat it with your soldering iron while carefully lifting it as the solder melts.
  • Placing some Kapton tape under the wires of the coil should help prevent damage to the carbon sheet under the coil during reassembly.
Step 48

Repair step

  • Repeat for the other solder joint at the 90 degree bend.
Step 49

Remove the plastic strip

  • Peel off the plastic strip from the inside edge of the case. It is only lightly adhered.
Step 50

Heat the flex cable

  • Use your favorite heating method (a hair dryer is used here) to soften the adhesive holding the delicate cable to the rear of the case.
Step 51

Peel the cable from the case

  • Carefully peel the flex cable from the case.
Step 52

Repair step

  • Remove the four 2.4 mm Phillips 000 screws securing the silent switch and volume buttons.
Step 53

Loosen the silent switch

  • Loosen but do not attempt to remove the silent/ring switch, as its cable is still adhered to the case.
Step 54

Peel the cable from the case

  • Again, after applying heat as needed, carefully peel the cable connecting the silent switch to the volume buttons from the case.
Step 55

Repair step

  • The audio control cable has been removed.
Step 56

Prepare the replacement cable

  • Apply solder flux to both coil connections on the replacement cable.
  • Tin both points with a coating of solder.
Step 57

Remove the slide switch

  • Rotate the slide switch down until the hinge pins are visible.
  • Lift the switch straight up.
Step 58

Install the slide switch

  • Place the slide switch into position on the side of the silent switch nearest the flex cable.
  • Rotate the slide switch into position.