FIXONIC
SellSavedMy Fixonic
Official iFixit API visual reference

iPhone 17 Pro Max USB-C Port Assembly Replacement

Follow this guide to remove and replace the...

Apple iPhone 17 Pro Max Moderate 1 - 3 hours Guide 206397
Open the authorised source
Licensed iFixit integration

This attributed iFixit guide is displayed through Fixonic's recorded commercial API permission. iFixit remains the independent source and author of the procedure.

Guide overview

Before you begin

Follow this guide to remove and replace the USB-C port assembly in an iPhone 17 Pro Max. If you experience intermittent connectivity or charging with the port, you may need to replace it. This procedure requires extensive disassembly. Before you replace the USB-C port, try cleaning it out first. Rule out any software culprits or other hardware possibilities. The USB-C port assembly includes the USB-C port, a microphone, and antennas.

Step 1

Safety precautions

  • Let your iPhone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair—a charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
  • Unplug all cables from your phone.
  • Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.
Step 2

Cracked glass preparation

  • Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone is cracked, follow this step.
  • Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.
  • Make sure there's a single strip of tape (not overlapping) across the bottom edge, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.
  • Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.
  • Consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
Step 3

Remove the pentalobe screws

  • Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.
Step 4

Mark your opening picks

  • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  • Alternatively, you can tape a coin 3 mm from the tip of the pick.
Step 5

Heat the bottom edge

  • Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
  • Improper use of a heat gun can destroy the display and/or battery—follow the linked instructions carefully.
Step 6

Apply a suction handle

  • Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.
Step 7

Screen bezel information

  • During the next step, make sure you're inserting your pick in the correct location:
  • There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen that sits on the frame. Insert your pick here, making sure it's completely under the bezel.
  • There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll separate the two, complicating the repair.
Step 8

Insert an opening pick

  • Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.
  • This may take significant force. If you're having trouble, reheat the screen and try again.
  • Insert the tip of an opening pick in the gap you just created.
Step 9

Screen information

  • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm under the screen to avoid damaging the following components:
  • The screen and ambient light sensor cables are located near the volume and Action buttons.
  • There are delicate spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone.
  • The underside of the screen has thin, metal clips that go into corresponding slots on the frame.
Step 10

Separate the bottom edge adhesive

  • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
  • Leave the pick inserted under the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
Step 11

Remove the suction handle

  • Pull the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the screen.
Step 12

Heat the right edge

  • Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
Step 13

Separate the right edge adhesive

  • Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
  • Slide the pick up the right edge to separate the adhesive and release the two clips.
  • You may need to pry the screen up slightly to release the clips
  • Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
Step 14

Heat the top edge

  • Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
Step 15

Separate the top edge adhesive

  • Insert a third opening pick under the top right corner of the screen.
  • Slide the pick along the top edge and barely around the top left corner to separate the adhesive and release the two clips.
  • Don't slide the pick farther, or you may damage the ambient light sensor cable.
  • Leave the pick inserted under the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
Step 16

Heat the left edge

  • Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
Step 17

Separate the left edge adhesive

  • Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
  • Slide the pick up the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the clip, stopping just before the volume up button.
  • You may need to pry up the screen slightly to release the clip.
  • Don't slide the pick farther, or you may damage the screen cable.
Step 18

Prop up the screen

  • At this point, the screen should be completely detached from the frame. If it feels stuck, go back around the perimeter and separate any remaining adhesive or clips.
  • Lift the screen straight up and swing it over the left edge, propping it up against a sturdy box or stack of books so the cables aren't strained.
  • Alternatively, you can lay the screen down flat over the left side.
Step 19

Remove the cover screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 1.2 mm‑long screws securing the battery and screen cable covers (one for each cover).
  • Small iFixit Phillips bits are designed to work with JIS screws. You can try Phillips screwdrivers from other manufacturers, but you risk stripping the screw.
Step 20

Remove the covers

  • Remove the two covers.
Step 21

Disconnect the battery

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
Step 22

Disconnect the screen

  • Use the tip of an opening pick or the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen and front sensors press connectors.
Step 23

Remove the screen

  • Remove the screen.
Step 24

Remove the battery screws

  • Use a Torx Plus 4IP screwdriver to remove the screws securing the battery tray:
  • One 7.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 5.9 mm‑long screw
  • One 3.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 2.4 mm‑long screw
  • Ten 3.7 mm‑long screws
  • One 3.7 mm‑long screw
  • iPhone models with a physical SIM card won't have this screw.
Step 25

Remove the battery

  • Use your finger to lift the top left corner of the battery tray and remove it.
  • Be careful not to smudge the front camera.
Step 26

Separate the buffer strip

  • Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.
Step 27

Remove the loudspeaker

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the loudspeaker:
  • Two 2.7 mm‑long screws
  • Two 2.0 mm‑long screws
  • One 1.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 1.5 mm‑long screw attached to the bottom edge
Step 28

Repair step

  • An adhesive gasket holds the loudspeaker to the frame.
  • Tilt the top edge of the loudspeaker out of its recess.
  • Slowly pull the loudspeaker away from the frame to release the adhesive.
  • Remove the loudspeaker.
Step 29

Remove the ground clip

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 1.9 mm‑long screws securing the ground clip.
Step 30

Repair step

  • Use tweezers to remove the ground clip.
  • The clip is delicate and easy to lose. Store it in a safe place for reassembly.
Step 31

Loosen the flex antenna

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the flex antenna:
  • One 1.7 mm‑long screw
  • Two 1.9 mm‑long screws
Step 32

Repair step

  • Use your fingers or a spudger to swing the flex antenna out of the way to access the screws beneath it.
Step 33

Remove the Taptic Engine

  • Use a standoff screwdriver to remove the two 4.0 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine.
Step 34

Repair step

  • Use your fingers to flip the Taptic Engine out of its recess and onto the edge of the iPhone.
  • Hold onto the Taptic Engine during the next step to prevent straining its cable.
Step 35

Repair step

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine press connector and disconnect it.
Step 36

Repair step

  • Remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 37

Disconnect the lower microphone

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower microphone connector.
Step 38

Repair step

  • Remove the two screws securing the lower microphone:
  • One 3.2 mm-long standoff screw
  • One 3.1 mm-long JIS 00 screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame
Step 39

Soften the adhesive gasket

  • The lower microphone is still attached to the frame by an adhesive gasket.
  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the bottom-right corner of the iPhone until it's warm to the touch.
Step 40

Remove the lower microphone

  • Insert the point of an opening pick between the lower microphone and the frame.
  • Slide the pick along the edge to create a gap between the microphone and the frame.
Step 41

Repair step

  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the lower microphone and the frame.
  • Twist the spudger slowly to pry the microphone off the frame.
  • Remove the lower microphone.
Step 42

Remove the battery buffer

  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the black plastic battery buffer until it's warm to the touch.
Step 43

Repair step

  • The large black graphite sheet (which looks like a black sticker) inside the frame is delicate. Be mindful not to scrape it with your spudger.
  • If you nick the graphite sheet, don't worry—it'll still function normally.
  • Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up one end of the battery buffer.
  • Grab the buffer with your fingers and slowly lift and remove it.
Step 44

Disconnect the USB-C port assembly

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two USB-C press connectors (one's underneath the other) from the bottom-left corner of the logic board.
Step 45

Remove the left logic board buffer

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 1.8 mm‑long screws securing the left logic board buffer.
Step 46

Repair step

  • Remove the left logic board buffer and store it for reassembly.
Step 47

Remove the USB-C port assembly screws

  • Remove the nine screws securing the USB-C port assembly:
  • Six 1.5 mm‑long JIS 00 screws
  • One 1.3 mm‑long JIS 00 screw
  • Two 1.2 mm‑long Y000 screws
  • If your iPhone doesn't have mmWave functionality, you may not have these screws.
Step 48

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm‑long screw securing the USB-C port assembly to the bottom left corner of the frame.
Step 49

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 2.8 mm‑long screws securing the USB-C port to the bottom edge of the frame.
Step 50

Repair step

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry and separate the buffer strip covering the screw in the bottom right corner of the frame.
Step 51

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the 1.2 mm‑long screw securing the USB-C port assembly to the right edge of the frame.
Step 52

Soften the USB-C assembly adhesive

  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the entire USB-C port assembly until it's warm to the touch.
Step 53

Separate the microphone module

  • Slide the point of an opening pick between the microphone module (left of the USB-C port) and the bottom edge of the frame.
  • Pry gently to separate the microphone from the frame.
Step 54

Remove the USB-C port assembly

  • The large black graphite sheet inside the frame is delicate. Be very mindful not to tear it with your opening pick.
  • Slide the opening pick under the USB-C port assembly, near the center.
  • Slide the pick towards the right edge of the frame to separate the adhesive holding the assembly.
Step 55

Repair step

  • Grab the USB-C port assembly with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the frame to remove it.
  • If the USB-C port assembly feels stuck, check for any missed screws and separate any remaining adhesive.
Step 56

Disassembly complete

  • Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.
  • Depending on your iPhone model, some reassembly photos may have minor visual discrepancies. The procedure, however, will be correct for your iPhone.
Step 57

Install the USB-C port assembly

  • Carefully inspect your replacement USB-C port assembly and remove any adhesive liners.
  • Align the assembly with the bottom edge of the frame and place it loosely in place.
Step 58

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the two 2.8 mm‑long USB-C port screws to the bottom edge of the frame.
  • Make sure to install these screws in the holes marked in green, not red.
Step 59

Repair step

  • Install the nine USB-C port assembly screws:
  • Six 1.5 mm‑long JIS 00 screws
  • One 1.3 mm‑long JIS 00 screw
  • Two 1.2 mm‑long Y000 screws
Step 60

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long USB-C port assembly screw to the bottom left corner of the frame.
Step 61

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long USB-C port assembly screw to the right edge of the frame.
Step 62

Repair step

  • Use a spudger or your finger to press the buffer strip back onto the frame. It should cover the screw you just installed.
Step 63

Repair step

  • Use tweezers to remove the adhesive from where the microphone attaches to the frame.
  • If the adhesive gasket isn't deformed and your replacement USB-C port assembly didn't come with adhesive, you can reuse the existing gasket. Be aware that you'll lose water and dust resistance.
  • You can use some double-sided tape as a replacement adhesive. Use a pin to poke a hole through the tape. Enlarge it enough for the mic hole, then apply the tape to the microphone.
  • Use your finger to align and press the microphone module onto the frame.
Step 64

Repair step

  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the entire USB-C port assembly until it's warm to the touch. This helps the adhesive to bond better.
Step 65

Repair step

  • Use your finger to press and connect the two press connectors to the logic board.
Step 66

Install the left logic board buffer

  • Place the left logic board buffer in its recess.
Step 67

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the two 1.8 mm‑long left logic buffer screws.
Step 68

Install the battery buffer

  • Inspect the existing battery buffer adhesives on the frame. If they're still tacky and not deformed, you can reuse them.
  • To replace the adhesives:
  • Use a spudger and tweezers to remove the adhesives. Be careful not to scrape the delicate graphite sheet.
  • Replace the adhesives with some double-sided tape.
Step 69

Repair step

  • Use the first image to help align the battery buffer in the frame. It rests against (but doesn't cover) the thin white frame markings.
  • Use your fingers to lay the battery buffer in place.
  • Press down on the buffer for a few seconds to secure it.
Step 70

Repair step

  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the battery buffer until it's warm to the touch. This helps improve the adhesive bond.
Step 71

Remove the microphone adhesive gasket

  • If the adhesive gasket isn't deformed and your lower microphone didn't come with a replacement gasket, you can keep and reuse the gasket. Be aware that you'll lose water and dust resistance.
  • Use tweezers to remove the microphone adhesive gasket from the frame.
Step 72

Install the lower microphone

  • If your replacement lower microphone comes with an adhesive gasket pre-installed, make sure to remove any liners to expose the adhesive.
  • Use tweezers to align the microphone with the frame.
  • Slide the microphone into its recess and press it in place. There should be almost no gap between the microphone and the frame.
Step 73

Repair step

  • Use a hair dryer or an iOpener to heat the lower microphone until it's warm to the touch. This helps strengthen the adhesive bond.
Step 74

Repair step

  • Install the two lower microphone screws:
  • One 3.2 mm-long standoff screw
  • One 3.1 mm-long JIS 00 screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame
Step 75

Repair step

  • Use your finger to press and connect the lower microphone press connector.
Step 76

Install the Taptic Engine

  • Place the Taptic Engine upside down on the edge of the iPhone frame.
  • While holding the Taptic Engine with one hand, use your finger to press and connect the Taptic Engine press connector.
Step 77

Repair step

  • Flip the Taptic Engine over the frame and align it using its screw holes.
  • The Taptic Engine flex cable should fold neatly between the Taptic Engine and the frame.
Step 78

Repair step

  • Use a standoff screwdriver to install the two 4.0 mm‑long Taptic Engine screws.
Step 79

Attach the flex antenna

  • Use your fingers or a spudger to fold the flex antenna down in place.
Step 80

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the three flex antenna screws:
  • One 1.7 mm‑long screw
  • Two 1.9 mm‑long screws
Step 81

Install the ground clip

  • Use tweezers to carefully place the ground clip in place.
  • Be sure to orient this clip correctly as shown in the images.
Step 82

Install the ground clip

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the two 1.9 mm‑long ground clip screws.
Step 83

Install the loudspeaker

  • Align the bottom edge of the loudspeaker with the frame and lay it in its recess.
  • Make sure the bottom-right screw tab seats properly against the frame. Gently bend it if it's out of place.
  • Use your finger to press down on the loudspeaker until it clicks in place.
Step 84

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the six loudspeaker screws:
  • Two 2.7 mm‑long screws
  • Two 2.0 mm‑long screws
  • One 1.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 1.5 mm‑long screw attached to the bottom edge of the iPhone frame
Step 85

Install the buffer strip

  • Use your fingers or a spudger to press the buffer strip back onto the top edge of the Taptic Engine.
Step 86

Install the battery

  • Lay the battery tray in place.
  • Make sure not to trap any cables underneath the tray.
Step 87

Install the battery tray screws

  • Use a Torx Plus 4IP screwdriver to install the battery tray screws:
  • One 7.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 5.9 mm‑long screw
  • One 3.5 mm‑long screw
  • One 2.4 mm‑long screw
  • Ten 3.7 mm‑long screws
  • One 3.7 mm‑long screw
  • iPhone models with a physical SIM card won't have this screw.
Step 88

Clean the frame

  • Work around the fragile grounding clips as you clean the frame. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
  • Use tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
  • Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off the frame.
  • If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a hair dryer or heat gun and try again.
Step 89

Repair step

  • Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the adhesive residue.
  • Use a microfiber or lint-free cloth to wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the residue.
  • Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.
Step 90

Clean the screen

  • If you're reusing your screen, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.
Step 91

Orient the replacement adhesive

  • Without peeling any liners, lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
  • Use features such as the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.
Step 92

Apply the replacement adhesive

  • Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
  • The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.
  • If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.
Step 93

Repair step

  • Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.
  • Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
  • When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.
Step 94

Repair step

  • Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive as you gently press the adhesive into place.
  • If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.
  • If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, gently pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.
  • If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.
  • If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.
Step 95

Repair step

  • Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
  • Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
Step 96

Repair step

  • Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
  • At this point, you'll still have liners covering the perimeter. Don't remove these liners yet—they prevent the adhesive from accidentally sticking while you reassemble your iPhone.
Step 97

Connect the screen

  • Set the iPhone screen next to the frame such that the screen cables can comfortably reach the logic board.
Step 98

Repair step

  • Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the two screen connectors onto the logic board.
  • Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.
Step 99

Connect the battery

  • Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the battery connector onto the logic board.
Step 100

Test your repair

  • This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone:
  • Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.
  • If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.
Step 101

Install the battery connector cover

  • Tuck the top edge of the battery connector cover under the cutout lip.
  • Make sure both tabs are tucked under the lip.
  • Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.
Step 102

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the battery connector cover.
Step 103

Install the screen connector cover

  • Tuck the left edge of the screen connector cover under the cutout lip.
  • Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.
Step 104

Repair step

  • Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the screen connector cover.
Step 105

Remove the final adhesive liners

  • With one hand hold the screen steady.
  • Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
  • Make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.
  • Check the internals for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.
Step 106

Install the screen

  • Lower the screen onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
  • If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.
  • Make sure the screen edge isn't pinching any cables.
  • Press along the edges of the iPhone until the screen sits flush against the frame.
Step 107

Repair step

  • Firmly squeeze around the entire perimeter of the iPhone.
Step 108

Apply heat to the perimeter

  • Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the screen perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
  • The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.
Step 109

Install the pentalobe screws

  • Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to install the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.