Home/ Repair guides/ 2010-2014 Subaru Legacy Horn Replacement

Official iFixit API visual reference

2010-2014 Subaru Legacy Horn Replacement

I wanted a nice sounding horn, so I replaced...

iFixit Library 2010-2014 Subaru Legacy Moderate 1 hour Guide 22000

Licensed iFixit integration

This attributed iFixit guide is displayed through Fixonic's recorded commercial API permission. iFixit remains the independent source and author of the procedure.

Guide overview

Before you begin

I wanted a nice sounding horn, so I replaced the stock honkers with a set of PIAA 500hz/600hz "sports" horns. This guide is a bit of a cheat -- the car was in the shop, and the front body panels were already removed from the car. So to accomplish this at home, you'll either have to finagle your way through the bumper, or better yet, take off the front bumper before embarking on this adventure. I'll try to include instructions for bumper removal once the car returns from the shop.

Step 1

Repair step

⌕

These are the [stock] horns you are looking for. One is located on the left-side of the radiator (when looking at the car), while the other one is next to the air intake / water tank.
Both horns are identical in terms of disassembly/replacement. The one mounted near the radiator is a bit harder to access, since the hex bolt is obscured by a frame -- but it's not that much more difficult to remove.

Step 2

Repair step

⌕

Use a 12 mm wrench to remove the bolt holding the horn in place.

Step 3

Repair step

⌕

PART USED ON THIS STEP Electrical Tape Referenced by the iFixit guide

View item

TOOL USED ON THIS STEP Wire Stripper Referenced by the iFixit guide

View item

Unplug the power connector from the horn, and use a wire stripper to expose a bare portion of the wire. The "20 ga" hole seemed the best fit for this purpose.
The PIAA horns have their power/ground connections on top of the horn, so the stock wire won't be long enough. At the same time, the ground cables that come with the horns are too long -- which is a perfect hack in this case!
Snip about 4" of the ground cable wire (the 1/4" female spade connector side) and use a butt connector to attach it to the horn's power wire.
It may be a good idea to insulate the connection with some electrical tape after it's been crimped properly.

Step 4

Repair step

⌕

Now you should have a shortened ground cable with a bare wire on one end, and that half-loop connector on the other.
Attach another 1/4" female spade connector to the end of the ground cable, and plug it into the lower of the two male spade connectors on the PIAA horn.

Step 5

Repair step

⌕

The factory bolt is a bit larger in diameter than the half-circle connector will allow -- unless it is expanded! So insert a needle-nose plier into the center for the connector and then spread it apart in order to accommodate the bolt.
Route the bolt through the horn's mounting hole.
Screw the bolt / ground wire / horn assembly into the factory mounting hole.

Step 6

Repair step

⌕

Plug in the DC power line into the top male connector of the horn. The final wiring / horn assembly can be seen in the first image.
Once you're done with the first horn, the second should be the same exact procedure -- so go get 'em!

Step 7

Repair step

No step image supplied by iFixit.

So that's it! Here's a before-and-after horn comparison, so you get an idea of the sound difference.
I don't believe the PIAAs are that much more loud, but they are definitely a nicer sounding setup than the stock honkers.